Shopping Cart
Your Cart is Empty
There was an error with PayPalClick here to try again
CelebrateThank you for your business!You should be receiving an order confirmation from Paypal shortly.Exit Shopping Cart



As part of your purchase comes THIS education package that consists of the education video - and all the information you need gathered here in one place.



It’s very important that you go through all info so that you are prepared and that you’ve done the educational element we were require.

We require you come for your "6 week educational visit" so we can be sure you have done the proper education and reading to be equipped to care for your puppy.

At visit and pick up appts any questions can be answered.

We reserve the right to refuse selling a puppy if we feel the education has not been done. READ ENTIRE WEBSITE AND THIS LIST: It’s very important to do your research and understand the commitment and the work involved and how to raise your puppy properly and train it. IT IS REQUIRED TO DO THE EDUCATION AND READY NECESSARY TO BE SUCCESSFUL IN BEING A DOG OWNER.

Why the visit?- We want to meet you! And so does your Puppy! Bonding time with your pup is important! Also it’s a bit of an interview and discussion about the prep reading you’ve done.



VIDEOS: [email protected]





[email protected]



[email protected]

Here are videos of interest:



We reach out when we have a puppy for you available that matches the description of what you’re looking for and at that time we send you a video of the puppy and parents pics and litter dates.

It’s all about nature

it’s really hard to know how many pups in each litter

We have to wait til litter is born and then match puppy to client based on deposit order. Your deposit is forfeited if you refuse 3 pups that match your application.

After you confirm a dog Watch your email for videos along the way! We will do videos of pups if time allows.




We are accepting C A S H O N L Y - no cards.

On arrival- pull into parking lot. Approach the office- ring bell to notify Tyson that you have arrived. He will call on you when he is available.

appointments are ***30 MINUTES ONLY***.

***. IF YOU ARE LATE - you have MISSED your appointment and you will have to RESCHEDULE ***

Please be on time and respect everyones allotted appointment.

PEOPLE WHO DO NOT FOLLOW OUR RULES WILL BE ASKED TO LEAVE. When visiting- please stay after and play with your puppy by the pond for as long as you like.



You are required use a harness (Extrasmall) & SEATBELT LEASH IN CAR

We offer these items in our boutique


6 Caring for your puppy


When you get a new puppy, it’s only natural to want to simply hang out with them and play and cuddle all day. Unfortunately, there are a number of things that you need to do in those first few days and weeks — both to make sure that your new pup stays healthy and to establish good behavior patterns. A holistic approach will extend your dog’s life and build better health.

To build immunity - Avoid antibiotics. YOU NEED TO Use a probiotic and vitamins for life to help Balance the dogs GUT and prevent yeast build up in ears and feed plain yogurt daily.

We offer daily vitamins and probiotic chews in our boutique - don't forget to get them when your dog goes home.


1. 1. Very important!!!! *****DO NOT go to the vet before the dog has been home 4 weeks even if your vet tells you to as a routine visit. (Only go if your dog is obviously sick) It is Too stressful on top of having already stressed system from the change of going home. STRESS DROPS YOUR PUPPIE'S IMMUNE SYSTEM.

2. 2. Very important - there is NO NEED to take a POOP sample to the vet when you take your dog home. We test STOOL before pups go home. Be sure to advise your vet that your puppy has already been given preventative parasite medication so no need for testing. AND THE TEST WILL NOT BE ACCURATE AS YOUR DOG HAS ALREADY BEEN TREATED AS A PREVENTATIVE FOR PARASITES SUCH AS GIARDIA OR WORMS. (Vets often do this to increase your bill)*** Giardia is in every environment now. Birds carry it. Do not treat with meds unless your dog has symptoms of illness and not from a routine test.

3. DO NOT TAKE YOUR VETS ADVISE OF WHAT TO FEED YOUR PUPPY- The dog food industry is very opinionated. It's almost as bad as politics and religion. Your vet may suggest a food they sell or another brand because they have an opinion. We can work with any dog food company and receive a special price - that is not why we choose TLC specifically. We choose it because we really like the results with our dogs on it.

4. DO NOT BUY THE PUPPY PACKAGE FROM YOUR VET You will want to test the waters with a vet and see if you LIKE their approach before committing to a FULL YEAR PACKAGE - that offers things like flea and tick chews that we DO NOT RECOMMEND.

5. If they are too pushy - guilting you into buying things you feel you don't need - get a new vet.

6. DO NOT LET YOUR VET SPAY OR NEUTER YOUR DOG AT 6 MONTHS. They need to be a year old so their growth plates are done growing and they have had adolescent hormones develop.

7. Vets are subjected to people coming in with puppies that are NOT from licensed breeders. Usually a dog from kijiji- a home breeder – or someone breeding their pet is the kind of situation vets see far more. They are usually skeptical about the care puppies have received thus far in life because it not as common for them to have come from a proper licensed facility such as ours. Be sure to show your vet the health card we provided so they can see that we have done proper care and preventative treatment. If a vet does not agree with our approach – feel free to have the vet call us. Do not blindly do things the vet is requesting if you do not understand or feel comfortable doing them. Call us ANYTIME IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS before proceeding with anything your vet tells you.




A great socialized personality; a 2 Yr Guarantee; First vaccine shots; Dewormed, Parasite prevention info, Puppy Care info package Collar, Leash, Toy, foot wiper, Pee pad for car, Breeder support and education.  FEEL FREE TO CALL US ANYTIME FOR ADVISE OR QUESTIONS!

• DEWORMER FOR FIRST WEEK (syringes with white liquid is panacur.  it doesn't need to be refrigerated.





We offer a first year starter package containing safe holistic products, treats and doggies accessories - we can ship or u pick up


We focus on green products-eco /environmentally friendly/ all natural/recycled /North American made products.

We offer everything you will need for your puppy - toys; crates; seat belts leash; harness and all of the products you will need for a puppy.

You will need soft toys - for only when you are with your pup. They can be shreaded so they are a choking risk. You will need a sweater or coat; food bowls; toy bin; dental care; tick puller; grooming tools. A dog bed is needed for training. A play pen should be used to keep the puppy from roaming the house. Training treats can be bakery items or meat treats. Use a different treat for toilet rewards than treats for training "sit" or "stay" commands.

You will need boredom busters like a KONG; puzzle balls or snuffle matts; lick matt.


You can preorder in the boutique and pick up when you come to the ranch.

Purchases can be picked up at either visit.

We offer a first year starter package containing safe holistic products, treats and doggies accessories The package contains: 
A year supply; handmade on the ranch; all natural products.

- we can ship or you can pick up - order on our boutique site.

We focus on green products-eco /environmentally friendly/ all natural/recycled /North American made products.

We offer everything you will need for your puppy - toys; crates; seat belts leash; harness and all of the products you will need for a puppy.

You will need soft toys - for only when you are with your pup. They can be shreaded so they are a choking risk. You will need a sweater or coat; food bowls; toy bin; dental care; tick puller; grooming tools. A dog bed is needed for training. A play pen should be used to keep the puppy from roaming the house. Training treats can be bakery items or meat treats. Use a different treat for toilet rewards than treats for training "sit" or "stay" commands.

You will need boredom busters like a KONG; puzzle balls or snuffle matts; lick matt. See article on website about boredom busters.




We believe it is best for an owner to learn how to train their puppy themselves so the connection and control is lasting. Best to learn from videos/books/trainer/classes.

We have discovered that when we train a dog for a client- the dog does not always stay with the owner - if you aren’t wanting to spend the effort to learn how to learn train your dog- you won’t know how to manage your dog going forward. Dog ownership is a hands-on venture. Pre-training only works if you already know how to train a dog.

TRAINER: HIRE ONE TO TEACH YOU IN YOUR HOME - NO CLASSES UNTIL AFTER 4 MONTHS – You Tube has great videos to learn how to train your pup.

Avoid too many high protein; carbohydrate or sugary training treats.

Sweet or really favoured treats are like candy for your dog child. They much prefer them over a well balanced meal they get from kibble.

To avoid too much “candy” Put kibble in a bag with dehydrated liver to transfer the flavour and not use other types of treats as the dog gets past toilet training.

Use a certain treat for toilet training. Use a different treat for behaviour training.

Dogs that over eat should have a slow feed bowl to avoid eating too quickly and causing many digestive issues.

Dogs train much faster when using a food reward over praise only.


10 SPAY OR NEUTER- register now on Ontario spca website for spay or neuter at a reduced price – should not be spayed or neutered until 1 year of age. Growth plates aren’t in place until then. It also helps prevent cancer in future by allowing natural hormone to occur. THERE ARE MANY NEW STUDIES THAT SAYS NOT TO SPAY YOUR MEDIUM TO LARGE BREED DOG UNTIL ONE YEAR!!!

 NO CONE- It’s stressful for them to wear a cone. The blow up neck ring OR surgery suit to prevent licking works better AND helps them be less stressed and they heal faster. RINGS AND SURGERY SUITE are available in our BOUTIQUE

Correctly picking the perfect age to spay or neuter your dog has been discussed in the veterinary literature for decades. In more recent years shelter and animal rescue groups have advocated for early-age, 6 months of age and even younger, spay and neuter with the goal of preventing unwanted litters. As an added incentive the surgery is quicker and less complicated prior to sexual maturity in these immature puppies. The recommendations are now changing and recent studies suggest some benefits to waiting until your dog is a bit older to have the surgery performed, especially for larger dogs.

Spaying and neutering is obviously great for population control. Shelters and rescue groups typically require that cats and dogs be altered before being adopted to ensure that they can no longer reproduce. This is not always the best for the animals health.

When animals are growing, the bone growth takes place from a site at the end of the bones called the growth plate. Sex hormones, like estrogen and testosterone, close the growth plates. If a puppy is spayed or neutered before their bones are done growing, the closure of the growth plates is delayed, sometimes by several months. The result of this is that the dog will get a little taller. We also know that dogs that are spayed or neutered, are more prone to tearing the anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) in their knees.

In an ideal world, dogs wouldn’t be spayed or neutered until their skeleton is fully developed.

Studies show that early spay/neuter does affect the growth plate, delaying its closure and causing dogs to grow taller and bigger than they should have.

For male dogs:

The signs of sexual maturity in male dogs include lifting their leg to urine mark (even in the house), humping, and overprotectiveness. Some of these behaviours can start at an early age and intensify as they continue to mature until 12 months, or even older for large breeds. During this time they build more muscle as their growth plates close. This maturation of their musculoskeletal system can help prevent certain orthopedic injuries later in life, especially in large breeds. There is also some evidence that certain cancers may be less likely if they are allowed to have some time to reach sexually maturity. Male dogs that are left intact through adulthood (past one year) and into their senior years can encounter prostate disease, perineal hernias, perianal tumors, and testicular tumors.

Small dogs do not have as many orthopedic issues, therefore it is fine to sterilize them on the younger side at 6-12 months of age. For large dogs that are very prone to orthopedic injury/diseases we now recommend waiting to neuter until 12 months of age.

The signs of sexual maturity in female dogs can have some similarity to the males, but they also will come into their first heat (estrous). This may mean up to two weeks of dripping blood, accompanied by moodiness and unwanted attention from male dogs from miles away. For most female dogs, this will happen around 9-10 months of age or older.

Once in while we will see a smaller-breed dog show signs of their first heat around 6 months of age. We also see large breed dogs that do not develop their first heat until closer to, or beyond, 12 months of age. There is a significantly higher risk of performing a spay surgery when a dog is in heat due to fragility of blood vessels and propensity for them to bleed internally. Given that, we avoid performing spay surgery while a dog is in heat unless it is an emergency situation. By about a month after the heat cycle, the blood vessels are more stable and the spay surgery can be performed safely. However, after the first heat the uterus and blood vessels have changed irreversibly to a mature state and spay surgery is more challenging than in an immature dog. Benefits that female dogs can see from having spay surgery when they are closer to maturity at one year include lower risk of orthopedic issues, a reduced risk of cancers (especially breast cancer), and a reduced risk of urinary incontinence.

When should I spay my female dog?

We recommend waiting until your dog is at least over 9 months and likely even older for larger dogs. The benefits are much more pronounced in larger dogs, but there is not a lot of difference for lap dogs. Studies have shown that large dogs spayed 6 months of age or less experience some higher risk of orthopedic problems and certain cancers and that risk is statistically reduced at 12 months. What happens statistically at each age in between still needs more study. We do know that with each heat cycle there is an increased risk of mammary adenocarcinoma (breast cancer) and risk of pyometra (a life-threatening uterine infection requiring emergency surgery and intensive care) so best to spay at one year. 



YOUR DOG HAS HAD FIRST SET OF SHOTS – (DHPP) which is recorded in your vet record 
 DO NOT GO TO THE VET FOR ONE MONTH NO SOONER THAN 30 days (avoid stress – and reducing immunity) Next Shots/Vet Visit: (12 to 16 weeks)

Follow local laws for licensing your dog and vaccinating him for rabies at 4 months Check with your local animal shelter or humane society for information regarding legal requirements, where to obtain tags and where to have your pet vaccinated at a rabies clinic.




Don't forget to order dog food! TLC is a holistic food - made in Ontario- delivered to your door FREE automatically anywhere in North America. We’ve tried lots of foods. This one works best. ***NOT FEEDING TLC Dog Food VOIDS YOUR HEALTH GUARANTEE***

* Don't forget to order dog food!

* It's this WHEAT-FREE holistic food that we require you to feed – It is made in Ontario- delivered to your door FREE

* How to order?

* Web:

* About the food…

* Phone order – 877 328-8400 - be sure to tell the agent you are buying a Lakewood Dog for your $5.00 off and your free personalized name tag. 

* WE REQUIRE YOU TO FEED the TLC puppy and later dog food. Your health guarantee is void if you feed a different food.

* It works as the best diet for this type of dog; better than raw diet or more expensive foods.

* This breed doesn’t tolerate raw food well at all. It’s too rich.

* Read the “Nutrition” articles. It explains about food allergies and wheat.

* We have done a ton of research on what to feed as the best nutritionally balanced food to our dogs. Golden retriever and Labrador retriever breeds OFTEN DO NOT TOLERATE WHEAT, CORN, FILLERS, ARTIFICIAL FLAVOURS OR COLOURS.

* They can have minor to major allergic reactions to an improper diet. Your dogs immune system develops as a pup. It’s is compromised if fed an improper diet. This can reduce the overall health and lifespan of your dog.


Thinking of switching your puppy’s food?

Your puppy is dealing with going home which is seriously stressful enough -

 it is strongly NOT recommended to add more stress from a sudden food change. When stress and change happens the immune system drops sharply. I strongly suggest that you stay with the intended food that your puppy has started eating from first solid food. Just because your puppy gobbles up ANOTHER food does not mean it is a correct food. These dogs are grazers. Not meant to wolf down food. It creates digestion issues to eat so quickly. (If only fed “treats” pups would gobble them down but wouldn’t be a great diet)

Please understand our advise from years of experience is what you are paying for.

We believe in this food and truly believe this is the best food for your dog considering the possibility of digestion and gastric issues goldens have.






Don’t feed food or water after 8 pm.

When toilet trained, leave the bowl available - puppy can free feed (grazing AVOIDS food aggression)

Dogs eating habits slow down and change as they slow growing and become more mature

Your Goldendoodle should learn to be a grazer - benefits are much healthier digestion health because they’re not wolfing their food down; Less food aggression and no food coveting.

They should be allowed to self govern their food intake.



All dogs benefit from daily multivitamins which help the immune system and improve health.

All dogs can benefit from probiotics, which aid digestion and modulate the immune system. Probiotics produce short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), which inhibit the growth and activity of harmful bacteria, such as E. coli, Salmonella, and Clostridium perfringens, as well as providing other benefits to the intestines. Human studies have documented the effectiveness of certain strains in treating diarrhea, irritable bowel, and intestinal inflammation (fewer studies have been conducted on dogs). Probiotics may help prevent urinary tract infections, and can even reduce allergic reactions by decreasing intestinal permeability and controlling inflammation.



Digestive enzymes aren’t a requirement for dogs, but they will certainly improve your pet’s overall health by supporting joint, digestive and immune system performance.

One of the biggest benefits of giving your dog digestive enzymes is that it relieves the burden placed on the pancreas to synthesis enzymes. In addition, food that is consumed with digestive enzyme supplements can usually begin the digestion process earlier, leading to more efficient absorption of nutrients.

Since most processed canine foods destroy enzymes in the body, supplementing digestive enzymes into your dog’s diets is essential to maintaining their health. The list of wellness benefits provided by digestive enzymes for dogs is extensive.

9 major benefits of digestive enzymes:

Supports immune system functions

Improves the body’s ability to absorb vitamins and minerals

Promotes healthy cell growth

Removes toxins from the body

Promotes healthy body weight

Promotes gum and tooth health

Improves joint comfort and range of motion

Provides an increase in energy with better nutrient utilization

Maintains normal levels of cholesterol

In addition to these main benefits, digestive enzymes also reduce constipation, bloating, heartburn, gas and the chances of skin irritations.

CRANBERRY CHEWS can be used for UTI – bladder irritation or infection.

YEAST OVERGROWTH IN EARS ETC. – use a heaping tablespoon or two of plain yogurt daily.



Loose stools result from a new environment from stress. We send home a weeks worth of probiotic- continue with a probiotic for life.


TO SOOTH A LOOSE STOOL– UP TO 2 WEEKS MAKE A MIXTURE OF ONE CAN OF CANNED PUMPKIN AND ADD 2 TABLESPOONS OF DE (Diatomaceous Earth) add FLAKES OF CHICKEN or beef boulion or eggs -freeze in ice cube trays – offer 2 cubes per day for first week – then a few each week for life.



Use a bell on a string and use your pups paw to ding it before going outside for a toilet break.

Reward with praise and a meat treat when the pup toilets when you take it out.

We suggest a doggy door bell and meat treat reward system to help you toilet train your puppy. Also -a doggy toilet will save your lawn.

We suggest a harness for walking your puppy until 4 months to avoid neck strain and better train-ability on leash.

We suggest sit stay come commands be started right away using their name frequently - reward treats should be different from toileting treats.

Take your puppy out every 2-4 hours. Any longer than that and she just won’t be able to hold it. Putting a set time (and place) to this activity also teaches her that this isn’t just

something she can do whenever and wherever she feels like it. Use a doggy doorbell, dinging it with the puppies paw when you take it out on a leash to toilet.








can be easily made to save a messy yard – a wood box – like a sandbox – with no bottom – 4’ x 6’ – fill half way with sand – top with pea gravel. Use a bucket with lid and small gardening shovel to scoop each time. Compost bucket contents when full. Bleach pea gravel each season- let bleach soak 2 hrs-rinse with hose.


Video on how to build it!


Toileting routine:

Best times to take your puppy outside is:

-When you wake up

-right before bedtime.

-Immediately after your puppy eats or drinks a lot of water.

-when your puppy wakes up from a nap.

-physical activity promotes bowel movements

-before or after entering the crate.



Be loyal to and patient with your faithful companion

Make sure the expectations you have of your dog are reasonable and remember that the vast majority of behavior problems can be solved. Remember, not all "behavior" problems are just that; many can be indicators of health problems. For example, a dog who is suddenly growling or snapping when you touch his ears may have an ear infection.

Nipping or mouthing-

It's not always easy to convince a new puppy not to bite the hand that feeds them, pets them, or plays with them, for that matter.

When puppies play with each other, they use their mouths, so they may also be inclined to bite or "mouth" your hand during play or when being petted. This is rarely aggressive behavior meant to do harm, but it is a difficult habit to break unless you encourage your puppy to try an acceptable alternative behavior. The goal is to redirect your puppy's energy onto acceptable chew toys, and to teach them to be gentle when a hand is in or near their mouth.




Uncooked- frozen Cow bones from the butcher are part of the diet and teach self entertainment as well as reducing stress from the chewing action. Puppies NEED bones to chew.

It is a myth is that dogs should never be fed bones. 
I suspect that these myths came from the same people who came up with the idea that our dogs should eat nothing other than kibble made of wood chips, corn and meat by-products.

Chewing on the right kind of raw bones is the equivalent of a good dental cleaning, it removes plaque buildup and prevents gum disease!

Raw bones provide a highly digestible source of calcium, phosphorus and other minerals, however, based on the HairQ Test results of hundreds of dogs, feeding bones is not enough to provide all of the needed minerals. That is why we insist on TLC pet food because it has the correct ingredients.

Feeding bones makes the stomach muscle layers stronger, which prevents bloat.

Bones also have a cleansing effect as they provide roughage in the diet and bulk for healthy bowel movements.

Feeding raw bones also prevents anal gland problems. The bowel movements after feeding bones are harder which helps express anal glands and get rid of toxins.

Chewing on raw FROZEN COW OR LAMB bones keeps him occupied.

A dog’s teeth need to be monitored regularly to ensure she can eat properly.



Getting into a routine One of the most important things you need to do for your puppy right off the bat is to establish a routine. Though it will be difficult initially for you to decide on a routine that will work for you, your family, and your puppy, don't wait too long to figure it out.


The crate is the dog’s DEN. Not a punishment. The space should be reduced so the puppy does not toilet in the crate. Just enough space to go in- turn around and come back out. About 8” to start.

Crate should be 42” deep. It’s his bedroom. Place to retreat. Cover with blanket. Door uncovered.

Crate training uses a dog’s natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog’s den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family.

The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don’t like to soil their dens. The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, like not to chew on furniture. Always put a COW BONE in the crate to chew. Nothing else!!! No food, water, toys or blankets

Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it. Don’t leave your dog in the crate too long. A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.

Time in a crate should not exceed age- 2 months = 2 hours 4 months = 4 hours; 6 months = 6 hours; 8 months or older – maximum of 8 hours. No food, water or soft toys should be in the crate. Bones only. The process of Introducing a puppy to a crate is very important. Go slow. Let him explore it on his own. Put a treat inside to encourage him. More info on how to start crate training is on our website. “Training tips”



The dog’s collar should not be tight; it should fit so two fingers can slip easily under his collar. Remember: HARNESS only for leash walking a puppy until at least 4 months.


When you're off your property, keep your dog on leash

Even a dog with a valid license, rabies tag and ID tag should not be allowed to roam outside of your home or fenced yard. It is best for you, your community and your dog to keep her on a leash and under your control at all times. Do not take your infant puppy off your property until after 4 months of age due to lack of immunity. Puppies under 4 months should be walked using a HARNESS – not a collar.


Give your dog companionship

A fenced yard with a doghouse is a bonus, especially for large and active dogs; however, dogs should never be left outside alone or for extended periods of time. Dogs need and crave companionship; they should spend most of their time with their family, not alone outside.

Give your dog enough exercise to keep him physically fit (but not exhausted)

Most dog owners find that playing with their canine companion, along with walking him twice a day, provides sufficient exercise. Walking benefits people as much as it benefits dogs, and the time spent together will improve your dog’s sense of well-being.

Exercise and play

Starting to think you’re never going to have any fun with your new puppy? Well, you can relax, because it’s also important to build time for exercise and play into your schedule.

Ideally, you want to begin your pup’s day with exercise before she has her first meal. After breakfast, try a pack walk followed by some bonding or play time. You’ll repeat this general routine throughout each day. Exercise, meal, exercise, bonding, meal, and so on.

By creating a good schedule for your puppy and starting small with tasks like feeding times, potty times, teaching keywords, and exercising and playing, you will not only save yourself innumerable future headaches, you’ll also ensure that your new bundle of joy grows up to be the best that he can be.









Other contaminants such as road salt can be avoided by using a NATURAL PAW WAX. It’s a barrier to prevent salt being absorbed into the body.



• You are required use a harness & SEATBELT LEASH IN CAR

We offer these items in our boutique- harness can be fitted on pick up. Just a reminder that GROOMING clients should come into office/boutique to drop off.

Feel free to stay to wait for your dog on the front lawn by the pond.

***. IF YOU ARE LATE - you have MISSED your appointment and you will have to RESCHEDULE *** Please be on time and respect everyones allotted appointment. PEOPLE WHO DO NOT FOLLOW OUR RULES WILL BE ASKED TO LEAVE.


It’s very important that you read through this info so that you are prepared and that you’ve done the educational element we require.

Please be sure to brush your puppy 1 - 3 times weekly to prevent coat matting and trim nails regularly. To learn good grooming table behaviour your puppy needs to see your groomer within a month of going home. READ ENTIRE WEBSITE: It’s very important to do your research and understand the commitment and the work involved and how to raise/train your puppy properly .

Karen our groomer talks about slicker brushes, rakes and combs as well as products suggested in her GROOMING video on you tube.




Most puppies lose their puppy coat when they're somewhere around 3 - 7 months old, depending on size, breed and coat type. This sort of puppy hair loss can be more extreme in some breeds than others, and may look very 'patchy' for a time.






It’s important to understand puppies commonly have yeast blooms during stressful times such going to a new home and leaving their mother and siblings.

Far too often, when dogs are diagnosed with allergies, they are actually suffering from an overgrowth of yeast.

When your pet’s body is in balance, yeast is an excellent source of beta-glucan, which is a powerful antioxidant that helps ward off skin damage, repair skin damage and protect your skin.

But, when your pet's body is out of balance, the problems begin...

also helps prevent cancer in future by allowing natural hormone to occur.



Brush your dog regularly to prevent mattting. One to 3 times a week.

Professional Grooming at every 6-8 weeks; Nails should be trimmed monthly; Regular brushing of hair is a must to avoid tangles (3-4 times weekly); Bathing with water only anytime; Dog soap- no more than once per week. Teach your puppy to swim in the bathtub right away. If your dog swims in a salt water pool you must rinse the dog afterwards as salt is not good for dogs.



Diatomaceous Earth (DE) on the skin weekly helps keep fleas and ticks off your dog. Also use a NATURAL pest spray when going for walks. For internal parasites - DE ¼ teaspoon in a tablespoon of pumpkin weekly. YOU NEED A TICK PULLER!



A combination of food choice, avoiding using chemicals, and over medicating our puppies with toxic flea drops. Also We DO NOT do any altering or invasive procedures such as microchipping – which is a health risk due to high rate of tumor and paralysis. We suggest a name tag instead. CALL TLC PET FOOD FOR A FREE -name tag. Read website to understand about toxins; unsafe foods and plants for your dog.


27 CANCER PREVENTION: SUPPLEMENTS SUCH AS PROBIOTICS, PREBIOTICS AND DIGESTIVE ENZYMES are being linked to raising immunity and gut health and cancer prevention.

To avoid cancer raise your puppy as “green” as possible - holistic approach will keep your dog healthier in the long run. Retrievers have known skin allergies and digestion sensitivities. Do not use food with any wheat or a raw diet. It is very important to use SAFE products on these hybrids. Do not use toxic drops for fleas and ticks. No plastic bones or raw hide.


28 ILLNESS – Can dogs recover from Giardia without medication?

If a dog has no clinical signs of giardia, you don't automatically need to treat it – they may recover by themselves if they are healthy and have a strong immune system. Probiotics help build a good immune system. USE THEM FOR YOUR DOGS ENTIRE LIFE. In some cases you will still treat an asymptomatic dog, such as if another dog or family member is immune compromised or ill. Giardia is everywhere. Your back yard, on sidewalks, on trails and forests. Animals and birds carry it – they Poop and rainwater disburses the giardia cysts. Cysts can live in cold and last for months. They are microscopic so you can’t see them.

If you have a puppy with symptoms- than treatment can be done naturally or with vet medications. Either treatment method requires you to bathe with chlorexadine shampoo to remove the cysts from the dogs fur so he doesn’t re-ingest the cysts and the cycle continues. The common giardia found in Ontario is not typically transferable to humans. Always wash your hands when cleaning up after your dog and grooming your dog.


29 DELIVERY of your pup: (contactless) $1.50 per km one way. (if you live 50km away its $50)


30. OUT OF PROVINCE - Out of province Referral program for your friends family & co-workers who live in a province other than ONTARIO.

our referral program: we (Lakewood Ranch Doodles) give the referring client/guardian $100.00 and the new purchasing client $100.00 as a incentive.



We have had clients tell us their puppy ate pinecones, fell off the couch, found rat poison, ingested wood, ate childrens toys, and many other scary accidents have happened - not to mention illnesses that can happen to a puppy with a un-developed immune system.


Vet costs have skyrocketed and we need to be sure that if your puppy suddenly needs care, that money is available for that care to happen.

- TRUPANION INSURANCE COMPANY offers you FREE health insurance for 30 DAYS Because you are purchasing a puppy from Lakewood Ranch.

It has to be ACTIVIATED THE DAY or two before or one the actual day the PUPPY GOES HOME 

you MUST use the code for the free 30 days – if you don’t use the code there is a waiting period.

If you wait and do not sign up when the dog goes home – you aren’t covered!

Call 855.266.2156 | Code: BR1LR92220

Or visit TRUPANION.COM to activate coverage




All our dogs are screened for health by our vet. We have European lines introduced into our breeding dog lineage to avoid duplication of genetic health issues.

Creating a Hybrid or cross breed (poodle crossed with retriever) strengthens the immune system because there are differences in the DNA.

Our breeding dogs come from experienced breeders who have health tested their dogs for generations and have carefully diversified their DNA by integrating European lines into to their breeding program. It is more important for purebreds to be tested because of the generations of imbreeding done by CKC breeders so they could win In the show ring. Duplicated DNA for generations is why the defects became a problem. This is why hybrids are preferred now for better health.

We no longer test every generation of our dogs for things we have bred “out” of the line. WE ONLY TEST WHEN WE FEEL IT IS NEEDED.

We are a licensed inspected kennel governed by the Canadian kennel code of practices set out to ensure proper practices in the care of our animals.

A LICENSED BREEDER who is has a license to breed dogs, is inspected yearly and they practices are reviewed by a government licensed kennel inspector; and must qualify under the Code of Practice for Canadian Kennel Operations set out by Canadian veterinary medical association.

CKC “registered” breeders simply send in money to a registery. No one inspects what they do.

While breeders of purebreds “register” their dogs on a list with the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC), doing this alone does not guarantee that they treat their dogs humanely or do any medical screening. All it means is that puppy is the offspring of two dogs that are both also registered as being purebred of the breed in question.

Registration happens by mail, and the CKC does not monitor or inspect the breeding facilities of its members or of breeders who register their puppies with the club. It is illegal to breed dogs for sale without being a license - but Many CKC breeders aren’t. 


• DOG PARKS are breeding grounds for bacteria and illness

• DOG PARKS – be careful of other poorly trained abusive dogs and feces not scooped

• PUDDLES, STANDING WATER, FECES are main sources of illness in dogs

• SWIMMING POOLS – Chlorine and SALT are harsh on your dog’s skin – rinse well.

• ANTI FREEZE for your car (GLYCOL) will kill your dog







• Be aware that cocoa, chocolate, milk products, grapes, onions, AVOCADO and other human foods are toxic.






The key to helping your new dog make a successful adjustment to your home is being prepared and being patient. It can take anywhere from two days to two months for you and your pet to adjust to each other. The following tips can help ensure a smooth transition.

First, gather your dog's supplies

You'll need a collar and leash, toy, blanket which we provide. Next is a crate, food and water bowls, food, and, of course, some bones. And don't forget to order an identification tag right away. Everything you need is in our boutique


Establish house rules in advance

Work out your dog-care regimen in advance among the human members

of your household. Who will walk the dog first thing in the morning? Who will feed him at night? Will Fido be allowed on the couch, or won't he? Where will he rest at night? Are there any rooms in the house that are off-limits?

Do not let your puppy roam the home unattended. It gives him the opportunity to get into trouble. A playpen is a great idea! When your puppy is out of the playpen- he should be on a leash at all times with a person. All members of the household need to be on the same page for training and language used with the puppy.


Plan your dog's arrival

Try to arrange the arrival of your new dog for a weekend or when you can be home for a few days. Get to know each other and spend some quality time together. Don't forget the jealousy factor—make sure you don't neglect other pets and people in your household!


Be prepared for housetraining

Your puppy is not housetrained, and work from there. Be consistent, and maintain a routine. A little extra effort on your part to come home straight from work each day will pay off in easier, faster housetraining.


Give your dog a SAFE DEN

A crate may look to you like the canine equivalent of a jail cell, but to your dog, who instinctively likes to den, it's a room of his own. It makes housetraining and obedience-training easier and saves your dog from the headache of being yelled at unnecessarily for problem behavior. Of course, you won't want to crate your dog all day or all night, or he will consider it a jail cell. Just a few, regular hours a day should be sufficient. Make sure your puppy gets to be alone for at least 2 hours per day to allow them to teach themselves self entertainment.

It should be roomy enough to allow your dog to stand up, turn around, and sit comfortably in normal posture.

If a crate isn't an option, consider some sort of confinement to a dog-proofed part of your home. A portion of the kitchen or family room can serve the purpose very well. (A baby gate works perfectly.)


Use training and discipline to create a happy home

Dogs need order. Let your pet know from the start who is the boss. When you catch him doing something he shouldn't, don't lose your cool. Stay calm, and let him know immediately, in a loud and disapproving voice, that he has misbehaved. Reward him with praise when he does well, too! Sign up for a local trainer to come teach your family how to training your dog - you'll learn what a joy it is to have a well-trained dog. Use positive reinforcement.


Let the games begin

Dogs need an active life. That means you should plan plenty of exercise and game time for your pet. Enjoy jogging or Frisbee? You can bet your dog will, too. If running around the park is too energetic for your taste, try throwing a ball or a stick, or just going for a long walk together. When you take a drive in the country or visit family and friends, bring your dog and a leash along.


Be patient and enjoy the results

Finally, be reasonable in your expectations. Life with you is a different experience for your new companion, so give him time to adjust. You'll soon find out that you've made a friend for life. No one will ever greet you with as much enthusiasm or provide you with as much unqualified love and loyalty as your dog will. Be patient, and you will be amply rewarded.



“Don't worry, he’ll grow out of it” is something that struggling dog owners hear a lot. Especially if their dog is between six months and two years of age.

Sometimes, it’s true. Most dogs do eventually grow out of chewing everything in sight, for example.

But sometimes, waiting for a dog to ‘grow out of it’ is likely to end in disappointment. And putting bad behavior down to 'adolescence' or 'hormones' is not always such a good idea.

I thought it might be interesting to look at some of the behaviors that dogs DO grow out of, and some of the behaviors that are more likely to persist or even get worse.

Behaviors that many dogs will grow out of

Puppy play biting

Toilet training accidents



Excessive boisterousness

I say 'many dogs' rather than 'all dogs' because there are instances when such behavior can persist indefinitely. Or morph into something worse. Let’s look at each of those behaviors in turn

• Play biting

• All puppies bite. And puppy biting tends to peak at around 3 months old, then decline. However, a different kind of biting, an ‘excitement nip’, can develop and persist in dogs during the second half of the first year.

• Excitement nips can become very rough and they are usually triggered by rough, physical play. You can avoid, and cure them, by insisting that family members do not engage in physical play or ‘rough housing’ with your dog.

• And by switching your dog’s focus from rough play to calm training, using short structured training games that can be played regularly throughout the day.

• Constant puddles

• Toilet training can seem like a two steps forward and one step back journey at times, but with good supervision, most puppies improve rapidly as their bladder matures.

• Even rescue dogs with poor toilet control will respond rapidly to a structured toilet training plan.

• Exceptions can occur in dogs that have lost that all important instinct for keeping their own bed clean.

• That’s why we place such emphasis during Puppy Parenting on never forcing a puppy to wet their own bed by crating them with a very full bladder for example, or leaving a puppy too long in a crate.

• Clumsiness

• Clumsiness is very common in large friendly puppies. And it can be a problem in homes where a large breed puppy is sharing floor space with a toddler.

• As they mature, most puppies do learn to step around babies rather than walking straight through them, and life gets easier!

• In the meantime, baby gates and supervision are your friend.

• Chewing

• The good news is that for most dogs it does end. Eventually!

• In the meantime, providing your dog a variety of chew toys, of different types, will help. And young dogs should not be left for long periods unsupervised until they have outgrown this phase.

• And I say 'most dogs' because adult dogs will sometimes chew and destroy furnishings, and even the fabric of buildings if distressed. Usually as a result of long periods of isolation.

• Okay, so those are mostly good news. Be patient, manage puppies and young dogs appropriately, and with time their behavior will settle and improve. But what about those behaviors that don't simply resolve over time?

Dogs do not grow out of these

Here are some behaviors that don't spontaneously improve as dogs mature. In fact they are likely to get worse

Running away

Regularly peeing or soiling the crate

Refusing to be caught

Barking or whining in the crate


Pulling on the leash

Not listening

Running away

• Running off during walks, sometimes for hours at a time, is a very common problem. It starts when a young dog's growing independence is not accompanied by a growing bond with, and interest in, their owner.

• When training goes right, the owner becomes the centre of the dog's world. The source of so much fun, that the dog never wants to be far from them, in case they miss the next good thing.

• A good structured training system ensures that this happens.

• When training goes wrong, the dog discovers they can have much more fun on their own. And the only solution is a period of restricted freedom while the dog is retrained, and the bond with the owner is rebuilt.

• Peeing or soiling the crate

• Occasionally I hear from a puppy parent that has got themselves into a particularly difficult situation. They have a young puppy that pees and poops in its own bed.

• This can be a difficult problem to fix but it is a very easy one to avoid.

• All puppies have a powerful instinct to keep their bed clean and from being very small will move away from the ’nest’ area to empty themselves. Bed wetting in this situation is usually the result of the puppy being forced to stay in its bed, until it can no longer hold on

• Refusing to be caught

• If you've ever spent an unhappy half hour trying to catch your dog at the end of a walk you'll know just how infuriating this can be!

• It happens because the dog doesn't want the walk to end. And it's usually an easy one to fix. You need to make the return to the vehicle or being leashed, a cause for celebration.

• TIP: Start at home with some very high value rewards. Warm roast chicken is usually a winner. Leash your dog, feed, and unleash your dog. Repeat many times. Progress to the garden or yard. Then to open country with the dog on a long line. Put the leash on as well as the line. Feed, and take the leash off again.

• Keep practicing and always, but always reinforce the end of a walk with some high value treats.

• Barking or whining in the crate or kennel

• Some dogs will give up making a noise in a crate or kennel if nobody ever responds to them. But not many. And those that do, may get worse before they get better.

• It's not unusual for a dog to bark throughout the working day if left alone at home.

• And the way to avoid this un-neighborly problem, is to train your dog how to relax on their own.

• Roaming

• Occasionally dog owners write to me because they are concerned that their dog is straying from their property. This is more common in rural areas where people are hoping to give their dog more freedom.

• Roaming tends to begin in the second half of the first year and although more common in intact male dogs, it does occur in neutered males, and in females too.

• It goes without saying that your dog is greatly at risk from this habit and unfortunately not only do dogs not grow out of it. It tends to get worse. And sadly, there is no foolproof solution, other than a secure fence.

• Pulling on the leash

• If your dog pulls on the leash you'll almost certainly be aware that this is a problem that is not going to go away on its own.

• Not listening

• Not listening tends to precede other problems, such as running away, and needs addressing promptly. You should be able to engage your dog in the space of just a few seconds.

• By engage your dog, I mean: make sure that they are fully focused on you and trying to figure out what you want them to do next.

• Getting your dog's attention is critical.

• TIP: You can make a start today, by practicing some simple short games with your dog - rewarding them for eye contact or a nose touch for example.

• Make sure you play those games throughout the day, so that your dog starts to realise you are not just a pretty face, you are actually worth listening to!

• Have fun, and keep your dog engaged!


So – why in the world do puppies do this? Puppy mouthing is that it is a completely, normal behavior NOT a “behavior problem” that needs to be trained away. All puppies do this and should. They’re supposed to do this. Its a normal part of their development.

When you play with your puppy, let him mouth on your hands. Continue play until he bites especially hard. When he does, immediately give a high-pitched yelp, as if you're hurt, and let your hand go limp.

Pups nip at people's feet or ankles. The idea is to teach your dog that good things happen when bad behavior stops. Mouthing and nipping are natural behaviors for puppies.

For actual biting: Hold the puppy's mouth shut to stop the biting.

One way to stop a puppy from biting is to say “no” while holding his mouth/muzzle closed for a second, followed by ignoring the puppy.

Use pull or tug toys to show human play is different from playing with a puppy. Boredom busters are a great idea. We offer them in our boutique.

Aside from housetraining, I would say that puppy biting and mouthing is the single most common behavior issue.

So be patient.

Your puppy puts her mouth on everything because this is the only way she knows how to interact and want to explore. Your puppy grabs with her mouth – she picks up objects to see what they feel like, bites down to see if they’re good for chewing, explores their texture and whether they can be ripped into pieces for fun.

This is how puppies instinctively want to play – if you’ve ever watched a group of puppies wrestling with each other, you know that teeth are part of the game. Young pups bite and chew on their littermates constantly, as part of their normal social interaction.

A puppy who bites your hands isn’t “bad” or defective in some way – she’s just displaying normal species-specific behavior for a young dog. This puts the burden on you to manage your interactions with her to help avoid problems, and to have patience and empathy while she learns.

So what can we do to help keep our hands, clothing, and possessions intact with a puppy in the house?

Our goal is not to “stop” this behavior or train it away – it will resolve on its own with age. Instead, we want to find ways to make this normal developmental period as painless and stress-free as possible.

Listed below are the most important steps you can take to keep your sanity:

Manage the environment.

Being a new puppy owner is a lot like having a toddler in your home. Make some basic preparations before turning your pup loose to explore.

Shoes, books, purses, loose papers, and articles of clothing must be kept off the floor at all times. So if your pup shreds your favorite pair of sneakers, just remember that it’s your fault – not hers.

To prevent table legs, baseboards, or other things being chewed use a baby gate or other barrier to block her access to areas.

Provide a variety of age-appropriate toys and treats for chewing.

Remember that puppies have a hard-wired, instinctive need to bite and chew on things – if you don’t provide an appropriate outlet for this behavior, your pup will find her own!

To give you some ideas, here are a few of my favorite options for chewing:

– Bully sticks

– Cow or pig ears

– Kong toy filled with peanut butter

– Boredom Buster Treat Ball

- Lick Mats

- Boredom busters

This is by no means an exhaustive list, so feel free to comment with your own suggestions if you have a favorite that I didn’t mention! If you’re not sure where to get things like this for your puppy.

Use these toys to Redirect, redirect, redirect.

You need to have a variety of different toys available anytime you’re playing with your pup. No teasing her with your hands or fingers, or using your shirt sleeve.


If you’re playing with your puppy and she bites your hands, grab one of her toys and use that to play with her instead. I would suggest having lots of different types on hand – long floppy rope or fleece toys for tugging, plush squeaky toys for biting and carrying, and smaller toys or balls for chasing or fetching.

What about petting? If you’re trying to pet or snuggle your puppy and she bites you, calmly stop petting and ignore her until she calms down.

Don’t punish.

The problem with punishment in this situation is twofold. First, it does nothing to help your puppy understand what she should do with her mouth. Remember that this drive to bite and chew on things is deeply hard-wired in young puppies – she was born with an instinctive need to put her mouth on something, all the time. She cannot just “stop it”, any more than she could stop eating, or breathing.

So, when does it end?

Although it might feel like forever, most puppies are biting and mouthing much less by the time they are 8-10 months old.

So be patient and consistent, and remind yourself that things will get easier.



It’s easy to make mistakes when you are learning a new skill. And avoiding them is always simpler when you know what to look out for!

Here are 8 common dog training mistakes you need to know about:

Repeating cues

Adding duration too quickly

Rewarding the wrong thing

Pushing or pulling your dog

Trying to dominate your dog

Overfeeding before training

Training too close to distractions

Choosing the wrong reward

Let's zoom in on those now!

1 Repeating Cues

We all want our dog to come when we call. We want to be able to say “Rover Come!” and have him rush to our side.

Yet what many of us inadvertently do, is teach Rover to come to: “Rover, Rover, come, Rover come, ROVER, Rover COME, COME HERE”

That’s quite a long cue and Rover mostly knows that he has plenty of time to finish up what he was doing after he hears the first tentative Rover?

Because that is what he has come to expect.

You can neatly avoid this problem by training in the right sequence. You'll find examples of this sequence in our online courses but you can achieve this at home on your own.

The trick is to add the cue after you have got the dog offering the behavior repeatedly and reliably. And not before.

2 Adding Duration too Quickly

Some of the things we ask our dogs to do have a ‘duration’ component. For example: when you train your dog to ‘sit’ you don’t usually want him to sit and get up again!

The same with ‘down’ or with ‘walking at heel’ - two seconds is not going to be much use to us.

You want a dog that will walk at heel for at least five minutes, often considerably longer.

It's easy to forget that duration is an added factor of difficulty for the dog, and that we have to train for this duration, not just assume that because we say sit, the dog will sit indefinitely.

Spoiler: He won’t :-)

Adding duration too quickly is a common mistake. How fast you can go will depend to an extent on your dog, but a dog that will sit for two seconds today, is not going to be able to sit for five minutes tomorrow.

It will take time to reach this level.

Foundation Skills students will be familiar with the way we start to add time in very tiny increments during the Mat Game, to begin with. But this is vital. The most important stage in this process is the very beginning.

You can use these principles yourself. Build up slowly, and increase the duration only when your dog has nailed it on the shorter time periods.

3 Rewarding the Wrong Thing

Dogs don’t do things in isolation. They do one thing, then another, then another, often in rapid succession.

A dog waiting for his leash to be put on may bark, spin, pause quietly, bark, spin, sit, bark, and jump up, all in the space of five seconds. Trying to reward an appropriate behavior can be quite challenging.

The way around this is to use an event marker to identify the behavior (for example standing or sitting quietly) that triggers the reward for your dog.

Event markers are critical for success in force-free training. You can teach yourself to use a clicker, but you can also use a word such as 'Good!' or 'Yes'.

4 Pushing or Pulling your Dog

Dogs have an automatic response to being pushed. They push back.

If you press down on your dog’s bottom, he’ll resist and push UP against your hand. This is not because he is being difficult. It’s a healthy response to being jostled.

Pushing and pulling dogs around slows down learning.

You can avoid this by using positive reinforcement training.

5 Trying to Dominate your Dog

We now know that trying to dominate your dog can be very confusing and even stressful for him.

The good news is that most dogs have no interest in dominance, or being in control. They just behave in ways that gets them the stuff they enjoy.

Such as a nice place to sleep. Great food, other dogs to play with, etc.

Modern trainers get amazing results just by controlling access to these things.

Pack leadership and dominance were consigned to the trash can by behaviorists some time ago, but there are still a few trainers that are not yet up to date on the latest thinking.

So if you are going to take your dog to classes, pick your trainer carefully. And do consider training your dog yourself, at least to begin with.

6 Overfeeding Dogs Before Training

If you are using food in training, and most of you will be, at least in the early stages, don’t give your dog a big meal right before a training session.

You want your dog to work hard and fast, some appetite will definitely help!

You don’t need to starve him, but training before lunch rather than after will increase his enthusiasm for the job in hand!

7 Training Too Close To Distractions

Anything that was not in the room with him, the day you taught your dog to ‘sit’, is a distraction.

This includes other family members, visitors, other dogs etc.

It also includes everything in the world outside that room! That means your backyard, the dog park, the sidewalk, the fields, and beyond.

Think hard about what might distract your dog BEFORE you give him a cue. And the first time you introduce a distraction, don’t get too close to it.

8 Choosing the Wrong Reward

You can’t figure it out. You make such a big fuss of your dog each time he comes when you call.

You rumple his ears, rub his chest, pet him, stroke him, and tell him how clever he is. Yet still, he disobeys you 50% of the time. What’s up with that?

The problem is, you are using the wrong reward. He may seem to like all that fuss, but the acid test is, does the reward increase the behavior?

The definition of reinforcement in animal behavior is something that increases behavior.

If the behavior you want is not increasing, the reward is just not cutting it. Get yourself a better reward!

Food is the most motivating thing for almost every dog. It's also quick and easy to deliver and consume.

And that’s why it's the tool we use to begin our positive reinforcement training journey. We strongly recommend you do too!



it’s important to know there’s a big difference between a food intolerance and a true food allergy for dogs. A dog food intolerance is when a dog has difficulty digesting a certain ingredient, like dairy, whereas a food allergy triggers an immune response.

Some dogs are sensitive to perfumes or other similar products like household air fresheners. Using powder based cleaning products, as opposed to spray or aerosol cleaning products, can help keep chemicals out of the air and away from your pet.

Some essential oils are poisonous to dogs. This includes oil of cinnamon, citrus, pennyroyal, peppermint, pine, sweet birch, tea tree (melaleuca), wintergreen, and ylang ylang. These oils are toxic whether ingested by mouth or spread on the skin.

As for which scents your pets are more likely to be OK with ... ... Avoid those made from (or with) paraffin, as that can release more potential impurities and irritants that can bother both your and your pet's respiratory system.

APOQUEL is a revolutionary dog allergy medicine that goes right to the source of itch and inflammation to provide relief. APOQUEL is prescribed by your veterinarian to control itch and stop inflammation associated with allergic or atopic dermatitis in dogs 12 months and older.




It’s important to understand puppies commonly have yeast blooms during stressful times such going to a new home and leaving their mother and siblings.

Far too often, when dogs are diagnosed with allergies, they are actually suffering from an overgrowth of yeast.

When your pet’s body is in balance, yeast is an excellent source of beta-glucan, which is a powerful antioxidant that helps ward off skin damage, repair skin damage and protect your skin.

But, when your pet's body is out of balance, the problems begin...


It's very easy to look at a dog and assume his symptoms are a result of allergies. Allergies seem to impact all of us these days!

But, the key difference between yeast and allergies is that an overgrowth of yeast is easily cured, while allergies are chronic and incurable.

Would you prefer your dog be diagnosed with an easy to fix condition, or a condition they will battle their entire lives?

This is just one more reason why groomers and veterinarians should spend time studying and understanding this condition. And it’s also why pet parents need to remain vigilant for signs of yeast in their four-legged friends.


Yeast is a naturally occurring, beneficial fungus that is a very normal part of the body chemistry in both pets and people.

Yeast, in and of itself, is not a bad thing. The word "yeast" comes to us from Old English -gyst, which means "yeast" and from the Indo-European root yes-, meaning "boil, foam, or bubble".

There are many types of yeast - some is used to make bread, others are used to brew beer or even to make kombucha. In fact, the yeast of red yeast rice is used to lower cholesterol in some cultures.

Other types of yeast occur on your skin and some forms of yeast are so helpful to the body that doctors are using it to develop drugs that treat aggressive forms of cancer!

As long as the balance is maintained through a healthy immune system, all is well. Probiotic and yogurt plus a multivitamin is key to balancing your dogs system.

But there is a more sinister side of yeast...

Some species of yeast are known as “opportunistic pathogens” which is another way of saying; you’re going to have serious problems if the system becomes unbalanced.


The Candida genus of yeast contains over 200 yeast species. It's the most common type of fungal infection in people and pets with compromised immune systems. It can invade any part of the body in both animals and humans.

Yeast dermatitis, also known as Malassezia dermatitis, is caused by an overgrowth of the fungus Malassezia pachydermatis. This type of yeast tends to invade ear canals as well as your pet's more "personal" areas.

Yeast does not require sunlight to grow, which is why we often see symptoms of the fungus in “hard to reach” areas, like under the belly, in ears, between the paw pads and nail beds, as well as other regions.

The problems with yeast occur when our pets’ natural body chemistry is disrupted. This can occur when small things happen to your pet, including:

Shaving the fur too closely

Administering antibiotics (and other types of medications)

Scratching (from ticks, fleas, allergens or other irritation)

Compromised immunity due to an illness

Black Skin in pets

We see a lot of "yeasty" dogs throughout the world, but it is especially common in hot and humid environments.

Big problems arise when the skin, our body's largest natural organ, is nicked or otherwise opened - which allows the fungi to travel inside.


Symptoms are already in place by the time yeast completely unbalances the system. Pet parents, groomers, and veterinarians should be very watchful of the following symptoms of a yeast infection (or overgrowth of yeast):


Chewing or licking paws, and dark rusty-red hair between the toes. If a dog or cat chews at their paws, there’s usually a good reason: they may have a cut, broken toenail, or something else that’s bothering him.

But if he is constantly licking or chewing his paws, it's most likely due to a yeast infection between the toes or in the nail beds. The hair becomes red or rusty-colored because of the yeast, not because of the licking.

The "corn chip" smell that you may notice coming from your pets paws is part of their natural flora. If you notice a distinct increase in this smell, it's time to treat for yeast.

If your dog is prone to ongoing ear infections, which includes scratching the ears, shaking their head, and obvious discomfort, it's very possible your dog is suffering from yeast.

Retrievers and other floppy ear dogs may be more prone to these conditions due to the ability for yeast to hide in dark, damp places.

Of course, there are many other things that may be causing these symptoms, (including ear mites or an actual ear condition).



Most modern pet parents lead very busy lives with jobs and children, and our dogs often end up spending a good portion of the day home alone. A lonely, bored dog will find a way to occupy her time that can be destructive to your furniture and clothes and potentially harmful to herself.

Hiring a dog walker may actually save you money in the long run when you factor in damages to your home. The dog walker can exercise your dog for as long as you think necessary, and hopefully your pooch will just snooze the rest of the day, until you get home.

Here’s suggestions to ease your dogs anxiety.

1. Let your dog watch television.

Turn on your TV to the Animal Planet™ station and up the volume. The sights and sounds of barking dogs and mewing cats helps to stimulate your dog’s brain in a quiet house, keeping her from finding ways to get in trouble.

2. Provide ways your dog can look through a window or door.

Open the curtains or blinds to a back window in your home so that your pooch can watch whatever is going on outside your back door. If you have a small dog or a toy breed, set a cushion or chair by the window so that your pup is comfortably able to see out.

3. Fill a hollow toy with peanut butter

Stuff the toy with your all natural all-natural peanut butter. Most dogs love the smell and taste of peanut butter and can take hours finding every last dollop in a treat stuffable toy. To provide an extra challenge, freeze the toys after stuffing them.

4. Scavenger Hunt

Make your dog hunt for her meals by hiding stuffed food puzzle toys or small piles of her kibble around your house.

Scatter a couple of handfuls of kibble in the areas where your dog hangs out during the day and she’ll have fun hunting her treats while you’re at work. You can also hide one of her meals or puzzle toy right before you leave home so that she learns to associate your leaving for the day with a positive – as opposed to a negative – emotion.

5. Calm your dog!

If your dog becomes nervous, anxious, or overactive when you’re not at home, you can try these ideas:

-Apply a combination of calming essential oils (lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, wild orange, and frankincense – whichever smells best to you) on your pet’s bedding.

-Give them a treat designed to promote rest and relaxation like all natural calming chews. This may keep your dog relaxed while you’re gone and help alleviate any barking issues that disturb the neighbors.

-Use a dog pheromone.

If you sense that being alone causes anxiety in your dog, try a calming DOG CANDLE. We offer these in our line of Lakewood Holistics Brand in our Boutique.

6. Give your dog a puzzle

There are loads of interactive dog toys on the market that will keep your dog occupied for hours.

7. Get your dog a furry brother or sister.

A dog as a companion to your furry friend helps both animals. You give your existing animal someone to socialize with during the day and you save a life. This is entirely a personal choice on your part, but you need to ensure that any new animal coming into your home is healthy, has been vaccinated and vetted, and gets along with your dog. Reputable rescues will often allow you to foster first, and then adopt the dog of your choice to make sure the animal fits well with your family.

8. Give your dog a block of ice to play with.

Place your dog’s treats or some suitable food in an ice-cream container, fill with water, and freeze. Alternatively freeze a toy like a knotted rope in some water. As the ice melts, toys and treats become available for your dog.

9. Schedule a Puppy Playdate!

Schedule playdates with the pets of a trusted neighbor or family member. Allow a pet parent you trust – and who owns a dog that your pet knows well – to come over and have a playdate with your pup. Make sure that both animals enjoy each other’s company and play well together before trying this activity. Leave your veterinarian’s name and phone number with the other pet parent just in case of an emergency.

10. Enroll you pooch in doggy daycare.

If your dog is well-socialized and enjoys the company of other pets, send her off to doggy daycare while you’re working. Reputable pet care facilities employ staff trained in ways to keep your pup safe and active. Find one in your area that fits your schedule and schedule a tour and an interview with management and staff. Make sure you get references and recommendations from pet owners that use the facility before you leave your precious companion for the day.

11. Employ a dog walker to exercise your pet daily.

Many reputable pet care facilities include a dog walking service. They send a bonded, experienced person to your home to walk your pooch on regularly scheduled visits. For those pet parents whose workdays run long, a dog walker may be the only way your pooch can get some much needed exercise.

12. Bully sticks and dental chews

Giving your dog plenty of her own toys and dental chews will help prevent her from gnawing on your things. Additionally, dental chews help to keep her teeth clean and freshen her breath. We like the Brite Bite Brushing Sticks.

13. Introduce a new toy

A new toy can add some excitement during the day while your dog is home alone. A tough chew toy that can’t be torn apart while you’re gone is best, just in case your dog likes to gobble things up. Also rotate her toys…after a day or two, put one toy away so it’s out of sight and mind, and bring out another to replace it. This will keep all of your pet’s toys fresh and exciting.


Frozen uncooked cow bones- Give in while in the crate Beef Bones – Chewing reduces stress and anxiety in dogs. Look for them at our butcher or grocery store- KEEP MEAT AND MARROW.



Great experience with this breeder. Support and education has been tremendous. Our doodle is exactly what we asked for. Hands down the family who run this ranch are dedicated and professional. Highly recommend visiting them to plan your next dog purchase.



We researched breeders for many months before deciding on Lakewood and we are so glad we did. We waited about 5 months for our F1 goldendoodle. Our wait was only slightly longer than anticipated and the family members were always very responsive when we requested an update. We knew Lakewood was a quality breeder after reviewing the information on their website and experiencing first hand their dedication to educating their dog owners. The staff were wonderful at our 6 week visit and 8 week pick up. They ensured we were well prepared and supported before we took our beautiful Fleury home with us. The weekly pictures and videos were such a nice gesture. Fleury is now 5 months old and we can't say enough positive things about her. She is very smart and responsive to training so far. She is sweet, affectionate, playful and a little goofy sometimes. We couldn't have asked for a dog with a more wonderful personality. Thank you Lakewood for a great experience!



If you’re reading my review, trust me , these people are FABULOUS, FANTASTIC, WONDERFUL, PROFESSIONAL, LOVING , and their personalities reflect on the dogs they breed . A dog is a life long commitment, companion , a family member, choose your breeder wisely because this will be the family baby you’re bringing home . I loved the entire experience of dealing with Lakewood Ranch !!!

Vanessa, Syd, Lin …. They created a life long bond in my heart ! I bought the most gorgeous golden doodle, healthy happy beautiful !!! I was worth the drive from Ottawa !!!! Their Ranch has everything it needs to ensure their dogs are at their happiness and well maintained in all aspects. They even have a teaching class one on one to teach you how to raise your puppy to its fullest healthy happy potential.

Thank you